Friday 8th

Today is culture day and where better than Deruta, the world capital of majolica pottery. Deruta is only about 20 kms from where we are staying so we were there fairly early and no crowds. We virtually had this, again, medieval hill town with all its ceramic shops and artisans to our selves. And what wares they had. Beautifully crafted and painted ceramics of all descriptions. The artisans were more than happy to show us their skills and talk their products with us whether they spoke English or not. We learnt a lot and bought some beautiful pieces some of which we have shipped home.
We had lunch in a little Ristorante which specialised in local food. Great!!!
The drive in the home direction was via Montefalco and Bevagna. Montefalco is a noted wine producing area and specialise in vino rosso. We didn't stop here but continued on to Bevagna where we walked another walled town. Again beautiful and although these towns all tend to look the same they are all different with different offerings. Bevagna boasts a range of medieval workshops ranging from musical instrument makers (lutes), paper, silk and linen. BUT, they were all shut for lunch whicn varies between 1 and 2 pm, 1 and 3 pm  or whenever. The "pausa pranzo".
We did though find a wine shop open where we bought some local Montefalco vino rosso.
Friday evening, back at Brigolante was "Cena in Famiglia" or family dinner night and we were invited for dinner -Emma, Eugo, Rebecca, Stephano and sons Nichola and Leonardo, John and Maureen (Canadian guests) and us. All of the food was produced on the farm we are on - Antipasto misto(bruschetta with oil, torta al testo with prosciutto, local cheese, legumes, cured olives, marinated wild mushrooms), homemade tagliatelle with wild aspragus, roast guinea fowl with potatoes and sauteed wild mushrooms, AND tiramusu and jam tart, washed down with Brigolante vino rosso and bianco and Spumante.
Cannot get away from the food.

Thursday 7th

Norcia is the capital of all things pork in Umbria if not Italy. In fact it produces the country's best salami - the word "norcineria" is synonymous with "butcher" throughout all of Italy - and the surronding area is one of the largest producers of the elusive black truffle. As you can imagine Ann was in heaven. It was all a dream come true for her.
We tasted, tested, compared salami, truffles, freschi sausage throughout this walled city all day and made friends with lots and lots of norcineria.
This town combined the sights, history, people and food. We loved it.
We drove back home through the Monti Sibilini National Park and at 1500 metres above sea level with snow on the side of the road and the mountains above us, we came across the village of Castelluccio. The town is famous for its lenticchie (lentils), pecorino and ricotta cheeses. But it's biggest call to fame is the "Piano Grande", a wide expanse that blooms with gazillions of wildflowers every spring and fills with snow in winter. We missed both but we could go back in a couple of weeks from the Marche side.
Further along the way home we travelled alongside the Nera River underneath steep mountainsides. It is along this river that trout and salmon farms abound. It was a food day so we stopped and bought some trote and salmon.

Wednesday 6th

Lago Trasimeno and Chiusi are about 60 kms to the west of Assisi and the road travels through relatively flat rolling hill type country side but again spotted with many small beautiful medieval towns. The lake (lago) is freshwater and as blue as the sky and we understand it's a popular swimming, sailing and fishing area.
But Chiusi was the highlight of today's excursion. We hadn't planned to go there but sort of decided after the town we had planned to explore, Castiglione del Lago was a bit of a disappointment. Chiusi is one of those old Etruscan towns (yes it's in Tuscany) which can be traced back to the 6th and 7th Centuries BC via the objects found in the town and surrounds. We visited the National Archaeological Museum of Chiusi which houses Etruscan relics going back to the bronze age and through to the Roman Empire. It sounds a bit dry but we could have spent more time there. It makes your heart flutter.
The cathedral in the town has frescos inside dating back to the 11th century. This again was breathtaking.
We were now getting to realise how old this civilisation in Toscana and Umbria is and we are now putting places to some of the things we have read and heard about.
BTW the food is pretty special too. "Mi piache la cucina Italiana"

Tuesday 5th

Rather than try our hand on the Autostrada again, we took country roads (2 lanes and paved) through the hilltop towns and Appennine foothills to Gubbio, via Gualdo Tandino and other hilltop towns too numerous to mention. The country side here in Umbria has to be seen to be believed. Rolling hills and medieval hill top towns of small populations, Mommas with black stockings, aprons and blue head scarfs.
Gubbio is a must do in Umbria. A wall surrounds this archetypical medieval town with its roots steeped in the ancient Umbrii people, on through Roman civilisation and it remains largely frozen in the middle ages.
We rode the "Funivia Colle Eletto"", the caged "wall of death" type ski lift to the top of Mount Ingino for lunch and back down again. The ride up is as frightening as it is spectacular and beautiful.

A gubbio Street

View from Cage of Death

Monday 4th

Collected the leased car at the airport in Rome and took off in what was Bob's first ever left hand driving experience. The tendency is to get into the left lane which can be pretty scary on 2 lane roads but on the autostrada (130 km/hr limit) if you stick in the left lane they come up behind you at 200 km/hr and blast hell out of you.

After missing the turn off the autostrada to Assisi and getting lost 3 or 4 times we eventually made our way to Assisi after asking for assistance and making a few friends on the way. We could not get the GPS to work for us. What should have taken about 2.5 hours took us 6 hours before we walked into our 1st week's apartment, La Stalletta.

Week 1

We have been out of internet WiFi connection range here in Assisi since we arrived but the relocation to our second week's apartment to-day - literally just next door, has now provided us with access. So following here is last week's activities

3rd April Rome

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Day 1

Day 1 of the big adventure was spent travelling from home to Sydney airport, waiting for the flight to Kuala Lumpar and now in transit for 20 hours while awaiting the final leg to Rome, which departs here at 11.45pm, KL time ( 2.45am home time). This 20 hours between flights has given us a good break from being cocooned up.
But we are transiting in the KLIA Transit Hotel where we have a hotel room to sleep, shower etc and tour around this magnificent complex. We decided to transit in the airport rather than travel into KL in the heat and humidity and be comfortable when we board the final leg. Staying in the transit hotel has meant we have not had to go through Malysian customs and back in through security wringing wet from the 35 degrees and 98% humidity of KL.
Nothing else to report at this stage. It will get more exciting in the next few days and grow from there.
Ann & Bob